The first few days through the middle of Sardinia.

The next stage is through the centre of Sardinia to Gofo Arangi where I plan to catch the ferry to Savona. In these circumstances it could take a while to get there. I leave my Sardinian family in Carbonia at 8.15 on Monday 29 July after a late night last night. We went to a wine and food festival which included a concert by 3 musicians, playing guitar, bass, accordion and keyboard. They accompanied a very talented lady with a big personality and voice, who sang local folk and international chanson type music in a very passionate way. It was very good, as was the food and the wine, 6Mura, supplied by the local vineyard owned by Susanna's brother and uncle. I can recommend this wine, so look out for it. It is very hot at present with temperatures reaching the lower 40*C by 2 pm. There is a hot stiff breeze blowing and as usual on a bicycle it is against! I ride via Narcao along the minor road and turn onto Ss293 to Siliqua, passing the imposing remains of Castello di Acquafredda atop the strategic mountaintop overlooking the valley. I continue through Vallermosa and cross a bridge called Punta Pauli Maori, I did not know that Maori were into bridge building and certainly not in Sardinia. I stop for a cold drink, and the lean man behind the bar asks me if I used to run, si I said , marathons he asks, then pointing at several photos of him finishing. The clock in the picture shows 2h30, well ahead of my time I laugh, he then asks my age and shakes my hand, too good he said and waives me goodbye. Interesting having a conversation like this each speaking their own language. I carry on in the increasing heat, the GPS buzzes every time a 1000 calories are spent, I should pay attention, as once the man with the hammer gives one a tap on the head, recovery is almost impossible. (Our American friends call it the bonk) I take a brake and eat an OSM power bar, too late really, as the last 10km to Samassi seem like 50! I book into a small hotel, the lady shakes her head when she realise I am on a bicycle. I have been biking for 3h40min and barely done 72km! I wash up, launder my clothes and have a beer before 3 pm, I will sleep well tonight. Tuesday the plan is to ride to Aritzo, it is hot and windy and progress is slow, yesterday I climbed 560m but today it is a bit more at 860 vertical meters. The climbs are not steep but with the wind there are long stretches I hardly get out of low gear. The distance to Aritzo is about 75 km, but there is a road closure and the deviation takes me up the wrong valley. I noticed it because the sun isn't in the wright place. Checking the GPS it now has distance to destination at 115km! Another lesson not to follow the device blindly. After I check the map, I turn back and via some amazing farm tracks it gets me back on the planned route again. I pass through Barumini and visit the Nuraghe ruins. I have done 70km by the time I get to Laconi and still have 25 km to go, all up hill to Aritzo. I decide in this heat, to leave it for tomorrow and book into Albergo Ristorante Sardegna. They have a great kitchen and specialise in Sardinia dishes. I have no problem eating and I can do with a little carbo loading. The breakfast at 7am is the best so far and I do not have to supplement it with the muesli I carry. The ride today is better, the early start before it heats up, more climbing but once I am between 850 and 1050 m up the wind is much cooler and I can handle the long climbing sessions much better. I also get plenty of rewards on the downhills where I do not need to brake and glide down on these lovely smooth roads. The road undulates at this altitude and is easy to follow. The challenge is the passages through the villages, the streets are steep and narrow, cobbled or with uneven pavers. One has to trust the GPS here and it is a wonder to come out at the other end. The streets are so narrow some won't take a car at all, others only very small cars with the wing mirrors folded in. Quite an experience. I pass through Aritza, Tonara and ride some time in the shade through the Ortuabis forest high up in the hills. I finally ride around Lago di Gusana and arrive at Gavoi at 1 pm. After climbing 1279m and traveling a distance of 73 km in 4h33. I book into an agritourissimo, a sort of farm stay, although this is in town, and includes breakfast, lunch and dinner for 60 euro, NZ 100.00. Well I just finished lunch, would you believe, Cuzirgioni, pasta with potato, Ravioli di formaggio, pasta with cheese, Fritelle di zucchini, zukini omelet, Insalata di Carnegie di maialetto, salad with suckling piglet meat, Formaggio caprino e fiore sardo, Sardinian goat cheese, Pane carasau, crisp bread, Crostata Allan fruitta, a sort of cheesecake with fruit and a small bowl of strawberries, a 1/2 litre of red house wine and a litre of chilled water. This was lunch, I am interested to see what dinner consists of ! This may be my first tour that I will put on weight !! I went for a walk after lunch and got accosted by the village fool, who shook my hand then kissed me on the cheek and kept holding on to me asking for money for smokes and beer. I got quite concerned as he would not let go, only when I said carabinieri and politia, did he let go of me to the amusement of a few locals watching from the terrace of a bar. Not to be encouraged I thought.